Just as shorts and knickers have their own interesting history, very few people are aware of the difference between a shirt and a 'bushirt'. While 99 percent of people likely remain unaware of this distinction—often treating them as the same thing today—they are, in fact, different garments.

It is true, however, that the British introduced both to India, after which they rapidly gained popularity. Interestingly, there was a time when the shirt was primarily considered an undergarment. The story of their arrival and rise to prominence in India is fascinating. The term 'bushirt' actually originates from the word 'bush' (referring to shrubs or forest). While the shirt is associated with 'discipline and formality', the bush shirt is linked to 'comfort'.

What is the difference between a shirt and a bushirt?
Shirts are designed to be worn tucked into trousers. They are cut longer so that they do not come untucked when the wearer raises their arms or bends over. Bushirts, on the other hand, are always worn untucked—outside the trousers.

Shirts are designed to be tucked into trousers and are longer in length, whereas bushirts are worn untucked. (AI Photo)
The hem of a formal shirt is curved—a feature known as the 'tail'—to ensure it stays securely tucked in. In contrast, the hem of a bush shirt is straight and flat. Since it is meant to be worn untucked, this straight cut gives it a neat and orderly appearance.

A shirt features a 'stand' beneath the collar, which keeps the collar stiff and upright. It also has a button right at the neck to accommodate a tie. Conversely, a bushirt has a relaxed, flat collar—often called a 'camp collar' or 'safari collar'—which remains open in a V-shape. It does not have a provision for wearing a tie; it is highly breathable and comfortable.

Formal shirts typically feature only one pocket on the left side, or sometimes none at all. In contrast, traditional bush shirts have two or four large front pockets, secured with flaps and buttons.

**The Interesting Story of the Bush Shirt**
During the 19th and 20th centuries, when the British and Europeans ventured into the jungles of Africa or India for hunting or exploration, they required a garment that was exceptionally comfortable, cool to wear, and equipped with ample pockets for carrying gear. The shirt designed to meet this need came to be known as the ‘bush shirt’ or ‘safari shirt.’ Since it was worn amidst the bush and undergrowth, it acquired the name ‘bush shirt.’
The bush shirt was invented as a garment suitable for harsh weather and challenging conditions.

**Popularity in India**
The bush shirt was perfectly suited to India's hot climate. Following independence, the combination of a bush shirt and trousers became immensely popular among office clerks, government officials, and politicians from the 1960s through the 1980s.

**Credit to the British for Introducing Both**
The credit for introducing both the standard shirt and the bush shirt to India goes to the British and European traders. Before this, traditional Indian attire included the *dhoti*, *kurta*, *angarkha*, and *mirzai*. What we now recognize as the formal shirt was once merely an unassuming undergarment worn beneath a coat.

Until the early 18th and 19th centuries, the shirt was regarded in Europe as a form of ‘underwear.’ It was worn directly against the skin, and wearing a waistcoat or coat over it was mandatory. Appearing in public wearing only a shirt—without a coat—was considered improper or akin to being ‘naked.’

In that era, shirts were invariably white. The wealthy maintained collars that were always clean and stiff, as they did not engage in manual labor. This is where the term ‘white-collar job’ originated.
When the British introduced shirts in India, they made it mandatory for clerks in Bengal offices to wear them. At that time, clerks in Bengal typically wore a *dhoti* on the lower half of their bodies and a shirt on the upper half.

Shirts were initially worn over the *dhoti* in India.
When East India Company officials and British officers arrived in India, they brought their culture of three-piece suits and shirts with them. Initially, this was a novelty for Indians. When the British recruited a workforce of Indian clerks for administrative tasks, a specific dress code was established for them.
Wearing a shirt over a *dhoti* was a product of this ‘Babu culture.’ Gradually, Indian men adopted the shirt over the *kurta* because its fit and buttoned cuffs made it more practical for work.

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